Sunday, 11 September 2011
LEJOG 2011 - Reflections
Statistics
Total mileage : 984.37
Total climb : 30,245 feet (Everest is 29,001 ft high)
Mph : 13.81 (This was Adam, Alan and Neil were much faster....if so, how come Adam finished first ? -Ed.)
Reflections
Neil
After 1,000 miles on a bike I now have a bum like a Greek statue, sadly I have taken in so many calories along the way that I also have Homer Simpson's paunch - a surprising result perhaps.
That feeling of contrast and surprise sums up our journey, devastatingly beautiful scenery in many parts of the country - and especially the Wye Valley and around Loch Never - sat alongside the absolute worst of motorway Britain, chewed up by traffic and sordid development. Doing 100 miles a day, every day, was tough, but more so mentally than physically as the routine of up at 6.30 and off at 8.00 became an easy habit, whilst the fear of giant trucks and uncaring motorists did not. Two of our party had nasty accidents - unexpectedly caused by the weather and the road surface - a good reason to undertake this trip as part of an organised group with proper back up. However our own little threesome experienced nothing worse than a couple of colds and one puncture.
Today, relaxing over champagne in a Michelin starred restaurant before the flight home, we reflected on our adventure. Perhaps we didn't find the Real Britain in the landscape we hurried through, but rather it was to be discovered in the camaraderie and warmth of our cycling companions and the Discover Adventure crew, each of whom had a story to tell and a reason for making the journey. A heartfelt thank-you to each of them for making the trip worthwhile.
Adam
Where to begin?
Perhaps with the fact that I lost my father to cancer about 3 weeks before we left. Never had I felt more in need of time to reflect, to channel my energies in a constructive way and recharge pretty depleted emotional batteries.
I cannot begin to describe how good this trip has been for me. Not only physically but, perhaps more importantly, emotionally. It's not very fashionable or politically correct to go on about one's love for one's country but I'm going to. Britain is a wonderful place. It's a country of contrasts, of great beauty, regular reminders of better times and lost industrial greatness interspersed with areas of timeless comfort and charm. It is full of people who, given the opportunity, show a rare depth of warmth and humour.
And I am privileged to have had opportunity to cycle along every foot of it, in the company of two great friends and a tremendous group of like-minded people.
If anybody is reading our blog and thinking about doing this trip, please do it. You don't need to be young or super-fit (although a bit of training undoubtedly helps). You just need a decent bike, the best pair of cycling trousers you can afford, a plentiful supply of chamois cream and an understanding family who are prepared to allow you to indulge yourself for a couple of weeks. I promise you won't regret it.
Had my Dad lived to see me do this I suspect he would have put it down to a bit of madness on my part. He was a proper countryman, a farmer from birth to death, and he didn't need to get on a bike to appreciate what was around him. However, for those of us who work in offices and live in the modern urban world it's a different story. Go and see it while you can.
Alan
This trip happened as a result of a promise, made to me, by my younger self. Twenty years ago I cycled from one end of France to the other, when I found myself unexpectedly between jobs. The trip was recommended by a fellow doctor and cycling enthusiast, who had just completed the journey from Brittany to the Italian border. I travelled from the granite towns of Brittany to the sleepy villas of Provence, making a voyage of self discovery along the way. I promised myself, as I stood on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, that one day I would undertake the same voyage of discovery in my own land and cycle from Land's End to John O'Groats.
The promise stayed latent in the back of my mind through my years as a junior doctor and then as a consultant. Somehow, pressures of work and commitment to family would not allow me to work the idea up into a practical plan. Then came the kick I needed. The elderly bronchoscopy equipment we were using at Nottingham Children's Hospital needed to be replaced and "LEJOG" seemed like an excellent way to raise funds. Angela Horsley, our children's matron, had just done LEJOG with Discover Adventure and recommended we do the same. Adam's practical mind ensured that we were at the start point at the right time and that both ourselves and our bikes could get home from North East Scotland. Neil and Adam worked furiously, fundraising from friends and colleagues in the City, whilst my friends, colleagues and family were gently harassed. The response has been humbling and immensely gratifying. At the time of writing, we have raised £25,565 with more money still coming in. We have already purchased a bronchoscope suitable for young children and feel confident we can buy the final scope we need (for babies and toddlers). We would all like to say an enormous thank you to the many, many people who have contributed to our appeal. If you have enjoyed reading about our experiences and would like to contribute to the appeal, please go to our "Just Giving" page, which will remain open for another few months.
Finally, you might fall into conversation with an enthusiastic cyclist, who suggests you cycle from one end of a country (any country) to the other. If you do, I recommend you take them up on the suggestion (or file for future reference). You may be able to help a charitable appeal which is important to you. You will also discover a great deal about yourself and your country of choice.
Saturday, 10 September 2011
Day Twelve in Words - Thurso to John O'Groats
Distance travelled: 28.35 miles
Ascent: 668 feet
Average speed: 12.6 mph
Ascent: 668 feet
Average speed: 12.6 mph
Pain ratings:
Adam 4 (cold, wet but in the zone)
Alan 6 (counting down every mile)
Neil 9 (ouch)
Sound track of the day:
Adam "Keep on running", the Spencer Davis group
Alan "Domino dancing", the Pet Shop Boys
Neil "We are the champions", Queen
Saturday dawned clear and bright. Hopeful cyclists donned their shorts and shed their rain gear. The breakfast room buzzed with subdued optimism. And then the heavens opened... We quickly changed back into full Scottish foul weather gear and, squinting into a miasma of heavy rain, set out for John O'Groats. We struggled against a stiff head wind. With each hard won mile, the signs of habitation grew fewer and the terrain more barren and inhospitable. We reached the "optional" detour to Dunnet Head (the most Northerly point on the UK mainland). Alan did not flinch, Adam was resolute and Neil didn't know where he was exactly and so followed the other two. When we arrived, we braced ourselves against the wind and posed for photos (just so that we could say we'd dunnit -oh dear, Ed.). Then it was back on the bikes as quickly as possible for the final 14 miles to John O'Groats. Adam powered ahead, his little legs a blur through the driving rain. Neil and Alan, lacking Adam's porridge derived energy, struggled to keep up. And then, like a vision, looming up through the murky morning, "the Sea View Hotel" - our regroup point. We gathered in the bar (watching England performing poorly against Argentina) and then rode in convoy to our final destination - John O'Groats.
And how dreadful was John O'Groats ? It is difficult to convey in words the feeling of disheveled decrepitude of the place. Like a ruined carbon copy of its twin in Cornwall (which was bad enough), its gaudy pleasure palace concrete buildings in ruins, it is a disgrace. Even the famous sign was just an unmarked stick. Horizontal rain and gales seemed appropriate for the desolation of the place. We celebrated, briefly (the real celebration will be tonight in Inverness), changed in the public lavatories (20p entry by turnstile - you get the picture) and left.
The ride has been challenging but uplifting - allowing us to see our own country with fresh eyes. There have been moments of great beauty (the sunshine on Dartmoor, Shap Fell and the Dornoch Firth) and parts which were truly ugly (fighting through the traffic in the industrial towns of the North West). We have been led with exceptional professionalism by Jo, Matt and Phil - the team from Discover Adventure. We have made new friends and discovered a cohesive team spirit. Thank you everyone who has read the blog and contributed to our appeal.
PS: keep reading tomorrow for the postscript and after party
Friday, 9 September 2011
Day Eleven in Words - Bonar Bridge to Thurso
Distance travelled: 85.62 miles
Ascent: 3,602 feet
Average speed: 13.74 mph
Ascent: 3,602 feet
Average speed: 13.74 mph
Pain ratings -
Adam 3 (flying along....until lunch)
Alan 6 (batteries low)
Neil 5 (powered by cake)
Soundtracks of the day-
Adam: theme from The Big Country, Jerome Moross (apparently)
Alan: 500 miles, The Proclaimers
Neil: The Long and Winding Road, The Beatles
Like every other day, reveille was at 6.30 am this morning, but this was not just another day, this was our last full day's cycling before John O'Groats tomorrow. It felt like there was a sense of expectation in the air, but it might just have been the reek coming off our Lycra garments, hanging to dry from every available hook and hanger like so many battle honours for our cycling regiment.
And just like soldiers before battle we soaked up our briefing about the day ahead. We were promised 'Stotting' rain, which regular readers will recall is rain so hard that it bounces back up from the ground, but we had a battle plan, which was to cycle as fast as possible and cover as much ground as we could before the Stotting began. Privates Lawson-May and Smyth reported for duty immediately after breakfast but their commanding officer, Major "Dawdling" Shutkever was nowhere to be seen. He eventually appeared from the officers mess with a cheery wave and announced that he needed lubrication before setting off.
Eventually all was readied and Lawson-May shot off at high speed like a sharp-toothed stoat up a Scotsman's kilt. Adopting a triathlon crouch he powered along the Scottish roads, now reduced to a single track (for an A road !) and with a surface the consistency of ancient porridge. Meanwhile the Major and his batman proceeded like a couple of matrons taking their Raleigh Shoppers down to the Post Office, chit-chatting away about god knows what.
Triumphantly (or pathetically ? -ed) Lawson-May powered his way to the front of the field and skidded into the car park of the Crask Inn ahead of time - not a drop of rain on him. Incredibly, less than a minute later the Major's party arrived and the landlady produced ample quantities of tea, coffee and what she announced as Apple & Walnut cake, "but we hed nae walnuts." Despite the absence of walnuts, two large slices of cake each were gulped down in short-order.
Now our route took us on a stunning journey around Loch Naver, and with no Stotting yet to spoil the ride or the views. At lunch Mat asked us to eat up all the food as this would be our last lunch on the trail. Neil, doing his bit, had three slices of Victoria sponge cake and a Penguin biscuit. To his credit he felt a little sick.
After lunch the gentle path of the morning gave way to undulating hills. The Discover Adventure crew divide hills into "Cheeky" and "Rude", but this landscape was Downright Mouthy and steam began to rise from our clothes with the exertion, whilst the weather turned Dreich, or drizzly in English, a sure pre-curser to Stotting, We passed the old nuclear power station at Dounraey and with only 12 miles or so to go our hopes of getting to the hotel dry(ish) began to rise. Soon enough Thurso came in sight, as ugly as Chernobyl but not as warm. We tumbled into our hotel and out of the Scottish weather, it seemed as if we had got away Stot free.
Donald Presents Ear Plugs to Alan
Thursday, 8 September 2011
Day Ten in Words, Invergary to Bonar Bridge
Distance travelled: 85.62 miles
Ascent: 3,602 feet
Average speed: 13.74 mph
Ascent: 3,602 feet
Average speed: 13.74 mph
Pain ratings-
Adam: 7 (Legs like jelly to the finish)
Alan: 7 (Very ready for dram of the day)
Neil: 5 (Toughest day so far)
Soundtrack of the day-
Adam: Can't help falling in love, Elvis Presley
Alan: The broad majestic Shannon, The Pogues
Neil: Watercolour, Pendulum
After an excellent breakfast cooked by the Discover Adventure support crew at the hostel we made an early start up the Great Glen towards Loch Ness. Apart from an early soaking the weather was kind - which was a good thing as today was generally agreed to be the toughest so far.
Loch Ness proved almost as elusive as its most famous resident - hidden for long stretches behind a thick lining of trees as we cycled along a roller-coaster road up and down its Western shore. Our average altitude was 35 ft above sea level - how could a road which goes along the side of a loch be so hilly ?
More challenging terrain still was to come - commencing with a thigh-burning pull up from Drumnadrochit (billed as a "rude" climb by the crew - that's one notch up from "cheeky", the worst experienced so far). Now we headed into wild countryside with glorious views of heather-covered mountains and, later, the Cromarty and Dornoch Firths. The roads were quiet, the spaces vast, the hills relentless, and a lorry made a good effort to return Adam to the clay from which he came.
By the time we arrived at Bonar Bridge for our dram of the day we were pretty exhausted. The whisky would have been a great idea if we had an easy run to our hotel....but the reality was rather different - more hills and one of those special Scottish A road surfaces which closely resemble a cobbled street and, for the first time in a few days, a properly warm sun (with us wearing foul weather gear) all made our overnight accommodation a very welcome sight.
And what a place - we imagine it was originally designed for sporting weekends but it now has a slightly faded, raffish charm and a view to die for. Sleep will not be difficult tonight.
Tomorrow sees us head to the north coast and Thurso - torrential rain is forecast.
Auld Donald's Scottish Weather Guide
Mild - shoving it down
Dreich - drizzle all day (could shove it down)
Heavy - Really shoving it down
Stotting - Shoves it down and then bounces back up
Grey - Looks like it may shove it down
Coming - shoving soon
Lumpy - Big shoving
Blinding - Really big shoving
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